Build a Cheap 11s Drag Commodore VT-VZ
This article will show you how to build a sub-12 second Commodore at a low cost. You can enjoy racing at your local drag strip
Step 1 – Purchase The Car.
Find ideally an SV8, VY Berlina or Calais automatic LS1. The Berlina and Calais have softer suspension. Often, the Calais and Berlina are treated a bit better than other models. The softer suspension means they will push the nose up better and put more weight on the rear tyres. The VY has better rear-end geometry than the earlier models, which will prevent you from installing a camber kit in the rear end. It is better, though, if the car has an LSD centre in its diff. So watch out for that.
Step 2 – Source And Install The Parts
A full exhaust with metal cats is required. There are no considerable differences in performance; it is mostly just sound. The different sizes of headers have their pros and cons. However, we prefer four-into-one designs with 1″7/8 primary pipes. Generally, anything is better than the HSV headers. We are getting great results from Manta 3″ complete systems, which sound good. Cam upgrades with dual springs, including titanium retainers and moly pushrods. They also install new lifters since these cars have done high kilometres, and their lifters are old. This will also require new head gaskets and head bolts. We currently recommend our GT Cam, which is the biggest one that can fit with factory pistons.
A stall converter is required. We import a very effective USA brand that helped our car do 1.500 60 footers and even 1.57 60 footers in our last low budget ls1. A good trans cooler must also be fitted.
Installing 3.45, 3.73, or 3.91 diff gears would also be better. The 3.45 are more familiar to source second hand cheaply. We prefer a 3.73 gear ratio. It is low enough when paired with a good high-stall converter. This setup will provide enough power if you want to go faster later. On our last low-budget ls1, the car ran 11.8 with 3.07 (standard diff gears) and a high stall. Later, when the diff gears were swapped to 3.91, the car only ran 11.7.
Get the car dyno-tuned. Our White VX, when it was an LS1 dyno, was around 270 rwkw, and it ran a best of 11.7/114mph at full weight with a 1.57 60 footer.
Step 3 – Source The Right Tyres.
We recommend chaser 15″ rims and Mickey Thompson Drag Radials part 3752R. These will give you up to 100 passes at the strip, and we have run as fast as 1.52 to 60 feet on them in a Commodore. Keep it simple by just changing the rear tyres as you can then drive to the track, change the rears and race or even drive there with them on. When you need to change all four tires, preparing for the track becomes more complicated. Your support crew must be larger to store the street wheels while you race.
Step 4 – Test The Car
Test the car at the strip and see if any suspension changes are required. This is where the softer suspension in the Calais and Berlina may be an advantage. If you have never raced with drag radials before, you will be surprised at how well the car launches. This is especially true if you warm the tyres up properly. They need around 20 psi cold at the strip. If you drive there with them, have them at 35 psi and let the air out at the track. The basics of burnout are to get the tyres moving fast before you move out of the wet pre-burnout area. The real burnout happens when the tyres are on the dry track. Get the car into 3rd gear in the water and try only to push the throttle once (no blurting on and off the throttle). Burnouts in 1st gear will not work and risk damaging your car’s limit slip diff. If one tyre grabs the track and the other one doesn’t, your LSD will be damaged. The way to prevent this is to have your tyres spinning fast, and then they will be less likely to grab the track. Aim for over 140 kph in 3rd gear before you reach the dry track. Try to maintain that speed for 1 to 2 seconds in the dry. Then, release the brakes and steer your car outward while both tires spin!
